Grundtvig Partnership : Traditional Village for a Future Life (2012-14)

E-Juniors (FR) « Traditional Costume » Presentation (Calatayud, ES, 21 Feb. 2014)

Part 1: On one fine (gray) Parisian winter day, some of our learners went on a photo excursion in search of « traditional  costumes » in the Belleville area of Paris…and here is what they found!

French Cook + Waiter

French Butcher

French Bread-Shop Worker

Part 2: The History of the Beret

Early Origins

· The ancient Greeks first used a beret style hat in the 5th century BC, 2500 years ago. The "pilos," as they called it, was practical and water tight because it lacked any seams.The Romans then adopted the floppy cap from the Greeks and referred to it as a "pilus" but eventually changed the name to "beretino." The Romans also gave the beret its true shape and decreed that only the aristocracy could wear white beretinos, giving the colored beret its first social symbolism.

Introduction to France

· It was not until 1280 that the first reference to berets appeared in France. A barely discernible stone figure on a Notre Dame church portal near Orthez, France wears what is unmistakably a beret. While the Basques of northern Spain and the Basque-pays region of France are normally credited with the introduction of the beret, this church carving helps confirm that the style did, in fact, begin in the region of Béarn. In fact, berets are also mentioned in a Béarnese text from 1461, and modern author Simin Palay includes the term "beret" in his Dictionary of Béarnese and Gascon words. However, because of the continued association with the Basque region, classical berets are often referred to as "berets basques."

Construction

· The Béarn and the Basque regions are mountainous areas, and herders had to travel this rocky terrain with their flocks of sheep. Knitting wool berets would have helped them keep their hands busy while watching their sheep. Once the berets were knitted, the shepherds beat them with "hammers" to turn the cloth into felt. Because the sheep provided brown wool, the early berets were probably brown. Today, only two companies in France produce berets, and both of them are located in Béarn. These modern berets often contain a leather band and are at least partially lined.

Popularization of the Beret in France

· Until the 1850s, France outside of Béarn and the Basque regions had little contact with berets. Then, during the Second Empire, Napoleon III drafted many men from these areas to fight in the army against Prussia, and the men brought the style to the attention of the French people. By the 1900s, men and boys of all ages were wearing berets, and it was sometimes considered, along with a smock, part of the standard French school uniform. The beret also gained popularity in Belgium because the people there closely followed French styles. The French "Alpine Hunters," a special mountain force stationed in the alps, was the first military unit to adopt the beret.

20th Century

· Through the 1930s, berets maintained popularity among boys and men in France, especially in the Pyrenees mountain areas (nowadays, in Béarn, boys still consider the gift of a beret as a sign of adulthood). In fact, they were so popular that the Marquis of the French Resistance used them as under-the-radar uniforms during World War II. During this time, American women also began to consider the beret fashionable. However, they wore the beret pulled down instead of in wearing it in a flat pancake shape the way that the French did. Artists and anarchists in France and all over the world adopted the black beret as a symbol of their cultures . Yet while the beret gained foreign recognition after World War II, its cultural importance in France declined, most notably in terms of men and boys. Hence, although berets still hold significance in areas such as Béarn, tourists visiting Paris will have to be content with wine and bread when looking to satisfy their stereotyped expectations.

Source: http://www.ehow.com/about_5318076_do-french-wear-berets.html

Part 2.1: The Oldest Known Berets!

The oldest-known representation of a beret is located in Bellocq on the portal of the Notre-Dame church (ca. 1280-1300 AD) of this little village, located 15 km west of Orthez. On the portal are two sculptures representing beret-wearing men.

One of the men is a pilgrim (probably on his way to Santiago de Compostella). The other is too difficult to identify clearly, but undoubtedly he is also wearing a beret.

These sculptures are “proof” that the beret has its origins in Bearn. The church of Bellocq is also interesting for its other medieval sculptures.

Well, one may say: “Hey, he’s a pilgrim, maybe he comes from another country and the sculptor represented a foreigner and this beret is not Bearnese”! This is a possibility; however, we will see below how medieval artists would often represent people from their vicinity, so, it is very probable that the beret has its origins in Bearn!

General view of the portal.

On the left side of the portal, one can see the pilgrim with his walking stick and wearing the beret.

A closer view of the pilgrim – notice the particular shape of his walking stick: it is a local one, called a “bourdon”, still manufactured in the same style in Bearn today.

The other person wearing a beret.

Source: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/18c49f/

Part 2.2: The History of the Beret (Video + Transcript)

Source: http://apprendre.tv5monde.com/en/learn-french/lhistoire-du-beret-0

1. Introduction

2. Legends: Noah +the ark, sheep fleece + the beret

3. History: The origin of the beret

4. The evolution of berets: the first berets, their characteristics

5. Berets in the 19^th century, the beret is feminized

6. Those who wear berets

7. The beret’s conquest of the (new) world

8. Different ways to wear a beret, depending on one’s personality

9. The beret and top couturiers: its accessories, how to wear it

Transcription + Google Translation

Voix off Simple et chic, français et fantaisiste, aujourd’hui la petite histoire du béret. [Les moutons] Ah quelle jolie galette que l’on porte sur nos têtes ! Il fait office de parasol ou de parapluie, il nous fait des allures de canaille ou de grande dame, mais il est avant tout l’image du franchouillard* aussi sympathique que - disons-le franchement - un tantinet ridicule. Mais attention : défense de se moquer, car l’histoire du béret a quelque chose de sacré ! La légende raconte que le premier à l’avoir inventé, c’est Noé, celui de l’arche de Noé. Après avoir sauvé ses animaux, Noé s’est aperçu qu’au fond de son bateau la toison des moutons s’était transformée en feutre. Il en découpa un morceau, le mit sur la tête et c’est ainsi que le premier béret est né. Mais, plus sérieusement, les vrais pères du béret sont les bergers béarnais. Corinne Lechevalier, spécialiste de la mode L’origine du béret, dans le Pays barn* et également dans le Pays basque, il est important de préciser que le petit garçon à l’âge de 10 ans se voyait remettre de manière tout à fait officielle son premier béret et c’était son entrée dans le monde des adultes. C’était un passage vraiment incontournable pour l’enfant et qui avait son importance sociale. Voix off À l’origine, les bérets tricotés par les bergers sentaient la bête, étaient poilus et rétrécissaient à la première averse. Au XIX^e siècle, les femmes se sont penchées sur lui et lui ont coupé les poils à ras et l’ont garni d’une doublure en soie. Depuis, tous les messieurs se l’arrachent, à commencer par les militaires. Jusqu’à aujourd’hui, les chasseurs alpins le portent fort bien, mais sa véritable nature revient au galop, car le béret, ce qu’il aime avant tout, c’est la liberté et les gens pas bien comme il faut. Marie Mercié, chapelière Il y a pour moi, deux facettes typiques : c’est le héros et le salaud. Alors, il y a les héros comme Che Guevara et puis il y a le salaud, type Louis de Funès*, qui porte toujours des bérets, je crois qu’il en a un dans La Traversée de Paris. Y a le résistant, qui est le héros, qui a un béret et puis il y a le collabo*, qui a aussi son béret. Voix off Puis le béret devient « bon chic, bon genre* ». C’est Madame Coco Chanel qui le fait monter sur les podiums. Elle contamine les États-Unis avec une nouvelle maladie : la « bérétophilie ». Cette petite toque ronde est plus qu’un simple chapeau, c’est un état d’esprit, une personnalité et, selon la façon de le porter, on affiche sa singularité. Bien centré, il dit : « C’est moi, regardez-moi comme je suis beau ! » ; sur le côté : « Ça va cramer* ! » ; et sur l’œil, il fait ou vieux cocker ou fashion victim. Philippe Model, chapelier Saint-Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier plus près de nous, Balenciaga ont réhabilité périodiquement le béret et après les Français, c’est devenu le symbole de la Parisienne, parce qu’on appelait ce petit béret très bien placé : mutin, piqué, piqué d’un diamant, d’un strass. C’est un béret assez petit qu’on portait basculé en cachant, bien entendu, un des sourcils avec un biais instable tout à fait stable, une grande plume et qu’on doit porter avec une désinvolture élégante. Voix off On l’aime tous, car il est bien pratique et s’il peut être chic, c’est encore en vieille canaille qu’il est le plus sympathique. *Franchouillard (fam.) : péjoratif, caractéristique du Français moyen avec tous ses défauts. *Pays barn : Il s’agit sûrement d’une erreur de prononciation pour le Béarn, région française du sud-ouest. *Louis de Funès : acteur comique des années 1960 à 1970 qui a joué notamment dans la série des « Gendarmes » et qui portait souvent un béret dans ses rôles. *Collabo : diminutif de collaborateur, qui pactise, collabore avec l’ennemi. *Bon chic, bon genre : expression pour désigner un style bourgeois de bon ton. *Cramer : signifie brûler, « Ça va cramer ! » signifie « Ça va chauffer ! Faites attention ! »

Voice Simple and chic, French and visionary, today the story of the beret . [ Sheep ] Oh what a pretty cake that is worn on our heads! It acts as a parasol or umbrella, it makes us looks like a villain or a great lady , but it is above all the image of franchouillard * as nice as - frankly - a tad ridiculous. But beware: Defense laugh , because the history of the beret something sacred ! Legend has it that the first to be invented is Noah, that of Noah's ark . After saving the animals , Noah was found at the bottom of his boat sheep fleece turned into felt. He cut off a piece , put it on his head and thus was born the first beret . But more seriously, the true fathers of the beret are Bearn shepherds . Corinne Lechevalier , fashion expert The origin of the beret in the barn Country * and also in the Basque Country , it is important to note that the boy at the age of 10 years she was awarded a manner quite his first official beret and it was its entry into the adult world. It was a really absolute must for the child and which had its social importance. Voice Originally berets knitted by shepherds felt the beast were hairy and narrowed at the first downpour. In the nineteenth century, women have looked at him and cut the hair flush and garnished with a silk lining . Since then, all the men are fighting over , starting with the military. Until now, Alpini wear very well, but its true nature will come running because the beret, he loves above all is freedom and people not well as it should. Marie Mercie, milliner There for me, two typical facets : the hero and the bastard. Then there are the heroes like Che Guevara and then there was the bastard type * Louis de Funès , who always wears berets , I think it 's one in The Crossing of Paris . Y has the strong, who is the hero , who has a beret and then there is the co * , who also has his beret . Voice Then beret becomes " bon chic , bon genre * ". This is Madame Coco Chanel who made on the podium . It contaminates the United States with a new disease: " bérétophilie ." This small round cap is more than just a hat, it's a state of mind , personality and , depending on how you wear it, its uniqueness is displayed . Centered, he said : "This is me, look at me like I'm beautiful! ", On the side : " It'll burn out * ! , "And the eye , he or old cocker or fashion victim. Philippe Model , hatter Saint-Laurent , Jean Paul Gaultier closer to us , Balenciaga rehabilitated periodically and after the French beret , it has become the symbol of Paris , because we called this little beret well placed: mischievous , dive, dive a diamond, a rhinestone . This is a fairly small beret that was rocked by hiding , of course, one of the eyebrows with an unstable through quite stable , a large pen and we must bear with a casually elegant . Voice We all love because it is convenient and it can be chic, it's still old scoundrel he is the most friendly. * Franchouillard ( coll. ) : derogatory characteristic of the French way with all faults . * Country barn : This is probably an error of pronunciation for the Béarn region of the French southwest. * Louis de Funès : comedian years from 1960 to 1970 who played in the series including " Cops " and often wore a beret in his roles . * Collabo : diminutive collaborator that pactises , collaborates with the enemy. * Bon chic, bon genre : term for a fashionable bourgeois style. * Cramer : means to burn, "It’s going to burn!” = “Things are going to heat up! Watch out!"